• Establish a care and maintenance procedure, which has daily, weekly, monthly, quarterly, and annual check steps clearly documented for all members of staff who are responsible for regular cleaning and maintenance. The daily steps can be as simple as a visual check during daily cleaning. A small maintenance item that is attended to in a timely manner will prevent more significant damage or personal injury, which may result if the issue is ignored.
• Establish clear accountability and a sign off process, which documents the successful completion of the tasks assigned to management and staff, and records the activity, the date, and location where these tasks were completed.
• Maintain good quality, date stamped records, and checklists of all care, cleaning, and maintenance activity, as this helps to avoid missing an important step and may be vital in the event of a warranty claim or a product liability claim.
• Immediately remove from service any item which appears unserviceable or which may result in further damage to the item itself or other property
• Use only the manufacturer’s recommended parts and equipment for repairs or maintenance, use only the manufacturer’s recommended equipment to move furniture.
• Check that the furniture has been placed on a level, stable, and smooth floor surface. On many occasions, what appears to be a defect with the furniture is actually the result of good quality furniture being placed on a poor quality, uneven, or unstable floor surface. Adjustable glides may help level the furniture in certain situations but can never compensate for a floor, which is in bad condition.
• Many furniture surface materials such as wood and metal finishes, veneers, laminates, wood edges, plastics, etc will be subject to colour fading and physical deterioration when exposed to sunlight or artificial UV sources. You should not use or store furniture in these conditions unless it has been specified for such
• Each quality finish has different recommended cabinet cleaning instructions. Follow the proper care and maintenance for your cabinets to keep them beautiful for many years.
• Daily cabinet care consists of cleaning up spills, drips and grease immediately to prevent stains on your cabinet finish. Prolonged exposure to food, water or other liquids can cause permanent discoloration or damage.
• Avoid hanging wet dish towels over the cabinet doors. Over time, this moisture exposure can cause irreversible damage to the cabinet and finish. Dust cabinets frequently with a microfiber cloth.
• Avoid using your dishcloth to clean or dry cabinet exteriors, since it may contain remnants of detergents and grease
• Thoroughly clean cabinet exteriors once or twice a year. It’s best to work on one small area at a time, using a damp cloth. Rinse frequently and dry each area immediately after cleaning.
• Each cabinet is built with several types of durable, high-performance hardware that will operate smoothly for years. Periodically, you should adjust your hardware. Tighten hinge screws, realign drawers, and adjust runners, because they can move with normal use
• Cabinet hinges are designed to be adjustable by the homeowner. Align cabinet doors after installation and before installing decorative hardware.
• Drawer boxes may need to adjusted after shipping. It’s easier to inspect and adjust glides before cabinet installation
• Once your project is finished, you’ll want to remove all construction dust. Wipe down all exteriors and interiors with a damp, microfiber cloth. Clean one small area at a time, rinsing the cloth frequently and thoroughly. Using a second cloth, dry each area immediately.
• Your cabinet hardware may require adjustments after installation, as they become acclimated to the new environment. Complete all door and drawer hardware adjustments before installing knobs and pulls.

Upholstery: Fabric

Yet another material that is used in making office chairs and sofas. The term fabric describes a number of different materials. There are natural and synthetic fibers which, according to the base material use, require different treatments. In most cases stains and spills can be removed easily; however we recommend using caution and the use of proper cleaning methods.

Vacuuming: Weekly vacuuming or light brushing helps to remove soil and prevent the embedding of dirt or grime between fibers which can increase abrasion and wear.

Stain removal: Stains on wool or cotton can be removed by using a warm cloth and if required an approved fabric shampoo. When removing stains please use caution, i.e. do not rub too hard on the fabric.

Machine washing: Certain covers may be removable and machine washable. Please check beforehand as some fabrics may shrink during the process. Never use undiluted cleaning agents, ammonia or detergent not intended for the use on fabric.

Upholstery: Vinyl

Vinyl, also known as PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) is yet another material that is widely used as a substitute for leather. Because of its durability it is also common place to be used for furniture, especially in offices. Vinyl comes in infinite colors and only little care is needed to keep them fresh and lively on you furniture.

Regular cleaning: You may use a mild detergent and water. Stubborn soil can be removed by using a bristle brush. Soil may also be loosened by letting a detergent solution stand on the surface and soak for a few minutes. Act immediately when removing spills or stains from vinyl. You may use paper towels or a white cloth. Solvents should only be applied to the vinyl and be kept away from other materials such as wood or metal.

Special Cleaning: Special vinyl cleaners may help removing stubborn soil. As stains are absorbed by the vinyl, a vinyl protective finish may help protecting the upholstery. Never use abrasive cleaners as they may scratch the surface. Certain cleaners, intended for other purposes may remove plasticizers, making them brittle.

Metal Finishes: Powder coating

In order to protect metal surfaces we can draw on a number of different processes. Powder coating is widely used for partitions and office workstations. The coating comes in different thicknesses, according to the use and can be supplied in any color thinkable. Cleaning methods depend on the chemical composition and the fastness of the coat cleaning however the following will apply in general.

Regular cleaning: In order to remove dirt or stains, clear water can be used to clean powder coated surfaces. Soft, non-abrasive cloth may support the cleaning process. In general most products recommended for automotive can be used as well. Never use abrasive cleaning agents or detergents containing a large percentage of acid or alkaline. Hard bristles of brushes may also damage the surface. Steam jet cleaners are not suitable for cleaning of powder coated surfaces. It is important that both, surface and cleaning detergent are not warmer than 35 Degrees Celsius and that the powder coat is not exposed to direct sunlight during cleaning.

Metal Finishes: Chromium plating

Chrome is a blue white metal which can be used to protect metal surfaces. The coating is very durable and hard and has a brilliant luster. In certain cases satin matte plating is used which looks similar to anodized surfaces. It is used mainly in making modular workstations and office chair base. The following tips would be sufficient to keep the chromed surfaces in good condition.

Regular cleaning: In most cases a damp cloth will be sufficient to clean chromium plated surfaces. In case of gummy soil, rubbing with baking soda can help in most cases. In case sudsy water is used, please wipe the surface dry after cleaning to ensure a shiny surface.

Special Cleaning: Should there be difficult spots a special metal polish may be required. Please only use those, especially made to clean chromium plated surfaces. Never use abrasive cleaners or rough sponges as they may scratch the surface.

Metal Finishes: Anodizing

Anodizing is a process whereby aluminium oxide is grown out of the surface. An electric current is passed through an acid electrolyte bath while the aluminium is immersed in it. Dying it is also possible because of the porous nature of the anodized layer. Anodizing, therefore, is a preferred process in the manufacture of various furniture parts like office chair armrests and bases. Simple cleaning tricks will make it last for long and retain its shine.

Regular cleaning: Cleaning anodized aluminium is easy. Because anodizing is so hard, you want to use an abrasive cleaning technique with a gentle soap. Do not use harsh acidic or alkaline cleaners because they may destroy the finish. Use solvents with care as they may stain the finish. It is best to try a test area first. Special abrasive cleaning sponges can be obtained from certain vendors and these can be used in connection with mild dish washing liquid.

Laminate

Another key to good care and maintenance of your office furniture is handling the laminate surfaces right. It is the other material along with veneer which is widely used in office furniture products. Although laminate is a very durable surface but it can be stained or damaged by improper handling. A few simple tricks will ensure good life and durability to your office furniture.

Protection: Avoid mishandling of knives or other sharp tools for they may slice or scratch the surface. Although laminate can withstand high temperatures it is not recommended to place hot objects on the surface over a prolonged period of time.

Cleaning: Little care is needed. Regular cleaning can prolong its life span and beautiful appearance. In most cases all that is required is a damp cloth to remove stains. A mild nonabrasive cleaner may be used. For high gloss laminate, a mild glass cleaner can be used to remove streaks. Never use cleaning agents containing acid, alkali, or sodium hypochlorite. These cleaners will mar, etch, corrode, and permanently discolour the laminate surface. Also, make sure that bottles, rags, and other materials contaminated with these cleaners never contact the laminate surface. Never use abrasive cleaners, powders or sandpaper to clean laminate surfaces. Acid based cleaners will permanently damage and stain laminate. Even some commercial self-cleaning waxes may contain abrasives and are therefore not recommended.

Cleaning the Carpet: water based paint: Scrape off as much paint as possible with an old knife. Using a cloth or sponge dipped in the solution (a cup of warm water and a spoon of dish detergent, no bleach), dab the stain working from the outside in. Soak it for longer if the paint does not start to dissolve in soapy water. When the paint starts to dissolve, use a tissue to absorb the paint-filled fluid that is left as residue. You can also use clean water to clean the surface. Make sure to always blot and not pour water as it may lead to saturation of the carpet and the stain might spread.

Remove oil-based paint: Use solvents like mineral turpentine, methylated spirit or a dry cleaning solvent to remove such paints. Just like in water-based coatings, dampen a rag and dab the paint stain from the outside in, without spreading the stain. Use a detergent solution to remove the dissolved paint.

Most wall paints (like emulsions and washable distempers) can be periodically cleaned with a mild soap water solution. However, stubborn and very old stains are difficult to remove from the film.

Cleaning can be done 2 weeks after application of finished coat for removing dust collected on the surface. The older the stains the more difficult it is to remove.

Special care should be taken for the passages, kitchens, and children's rooms where soiling is maximum.

Every month, keep a day aside to clean walls. Use a sponge and mild soap solution and lightly scrub the areas that have stains. Heavy scrubbing may cause permanent damage to the paint film.

In case of severe staining (like spilled food), clean the walls immediately before the stain dries up.

Children's rooms are likely to get dirty quicker than the rest of the house. Apply a single coat of paint every two years or so. Before you start painting, make sure the surface is light sanded with emery paper 400 to prepare it for fresh paint adhesion & dirt removal.

Check your walls periodically for signs of paint flaking or peeling. These could be the first signs of water leakage or seepage problems. The moment you notice such problems, get a contractor to inspect the damage. If the problem is localised (only occurring in specific areas) and the source of water seepage is detected, have it rectified immediately to save your walls and paint from more damage. This might require repainting one or two walls. Ignoring the problem will aggravate the damage and might be expensive to repair later.

Enamel paints on doors and windows exposed to sunlight lose their gloss over time. Reapply a single coat every two years to keep them looking fresh. Before you start painting, make sure the surface is light sanded with emery paper 400 to prepare it for fresh paint adhesion & dirt removal.

Cleaning Paint Drips

While painting your home, stay away from the hassle of wiping paint stains from furniture, fans, chandeliers etc. by covering them with old cloth or plastic. Be sure to wipe out the paint drips from the floor immediately.

For water-based paints (distempers, wall putty, emulsion paints - interior and exterior including water-based luxury enamel and primers):

Wet condition: Wash with cold water immediately and wipe with clean cloth.

Dried film: Soak the drip with water or dilute detergent solution. The film should be scraped off with a suitable scraper. While scratching, ensure not to damage the value and appearance of the substrate, especially in case of wooden, marble or valuable metal articles / substrates.

For solvent based (enamels, interior wall paints (Lustre or Matt), all primers, knifing paste filler, Touchwood):

Wet condition: Wash immediately with mineral turpentine oil and wipe with clean cloth.

Dried film: The drip should be soaked with mineral turpentine. If the stain has dried for over two days, soak the stain with Xylene. Then, scratch the film using a suitable scraper. While scratching, ensure not to damage the value and appearance of the substrate, especially in case of wooden, marble or valuable metal articles / substrates. Wipe the area with water or dilute detergent solution and leave it to dry.

For wood finishes (Melamine or PU)

Wet condition: Clean out the Melamine drips by soaking with Thinner T -124 and then wiping out with a clean cloth. Similarly, clean the PU stains by soaking with PU Thinner no. 338 and then wiping with a clean cloth.

Cleaning Articles / Substrates

Recoat a painted / polished wood with clear finish: Apply paint remover / stripper on the surface. Scrape the peeled coating from the surface of wood. Clean the surface with NC thinner to remove traces of paint film and residual paint remover / material. Allow sufficient time (overnight) before applying any coating.

Change colour of wood:  the colour with paint remover. However, if the stain is directly on the wood, removing it will be difficult. In such cases, you can apply the same stain or a darker one during recoating.

Clean drips of Touchwood, Melamine and PU on wooden articles, floor, tiles: It is difficult to remove drip marks from wooden surfaces. If the paint has penetrated through the surface then the entire film has to be removed and recoated. It can be done using a scraper or files (available at hardware stores), gently without damaging the wood. Follow it up with sanding using emery paper no. 180 and continue normal application of the wood finish. Drip marks on the floor / tiles can be removed by carefully scraping with a putty knife or scraper. However, mask the area near the coating surface as scraping Melamine and PU coating can be time consuming.

Clean wax drips: Carefully scrape out as much solid wax as possible. Once the surface is sufficiently clean, place a freezer bag of ice cubes over the affected area for several minutes. The cold makes the wax more brittle. Now you can use a butter knife to scrape off additional residue. Finally, apply the warm-hot method. Use a hair dryer to soften the remaining material and scrape it off.  Or place a very absorbent material like a thick paper towel (or napkin) on the spill and run a hot iron on it. The wax will melt and get absorbed by the material.

Verify colour temperature. Standard colour temperatures typically range from approximately 2,800K (warm colour) halogen-type sources to actual daylight/blue sky, which is commonly associated with 8,000K to 10,000K (cool colour). "Daylight fluorescent" lamps with 5,000K to 6,000K are not ideal when used indoors. A warm or neutral 3,000K is better for office environments.

Look at areas with multiple lamps: If you see variations in colour, it could be that the correct lamp was used, but that it has the wrong colour temperature. It could also mean that the ballasts need to be checked. If voltage is not being properly regulated to the lamp, it will have an effect on the output. Lamp flickering indicates a problem with the power being regulated to the lamp and typically requires inspection of the ballast.

Confirm that everything is in working order. In addition to making sure the fixtures work, be sure that accessories are not forgotten. If fixtures are intended to have accessories such as diffuser lenses, louvers, spread lenses, colour filters, or glare-control devices, make sure that you have (and use) them.

An up-to-date equipment inventory makes it much easier to obtain appropriate replacement parts, if this should ever become necessary. Typically, you will need the manufacturer and model number of the fixture in question. From there, a distributor or local manufacturer's representative will be able to assist and determine product numbers for replacement parts and/or related equipment. Lighting professionals may be able to help as well.

When evaluating new fixtures, captive screws/hardware can avoid the problem of missing parts. Minimal tools needed to relamp and durable finishes are some desirable features to consider.

Watch for compatibility issues. All fluorescent, compact-fluorescent, and HID light sources require ballasts, and all low-voltage light sources require transformers in addition to the lamp itself. These devices regulate power to the light source and should be one of the first items to inspect when experiencing any problems with a light fixture.

Replacing current equipment with "special" ballasts (such as energy-saving types, etc.) may also require use of "special" lamps. Additionally, manufacturers typically only warrant a product if the proper lamp/ballast combination is used.

Get rid of dirt. Installations accumulate dirt over time, reducing the output of a lighting fixture. In the case of most office lighting (2x2 or linear pendant fluorescent), light is typically reflected off of the inner surface, which is usually painted white. If this surface accumulates dirt, it won't perform as well and there will be reduced output of the fixture over time. Dusting the lamps and cleaning these surfaces, as well as any lenses or perforated baskets or louvers, enhance lighting performance and allow the fixture to perform optimally. The frequency of cleaning the fixtures depends on the amount of debris and dust in the environment - cleaning even once a year will help. The ideal time to do this is during your group relamping cycle.

Don't forget exterior lighting. Overgrown surrounding plant materials can burn and obstruct the lighting. Make sure that foliage is pruned and trimmed on a regular basis to avoid these problems.

In-grade fixtures can present problems if not maintained properly. Salt and chemicals used in the winter months can corrode fixtures and gaskets, causing condensation and fixture failures. Fixtures made specifically with Teflon (and/or fixtures designed to operate in a marine environment) can be helpful, low-maintenance alternatives

Dealing with Leaks and Condensation

Since bathrooms deal with a lot of moisture, it’s imperative that they are suitably ventilated. Bathrooms that are not properly ventilated will remain humid long after showering or bathing, making for a much more inviting environment for household mould.

Mould presents a whole raft of problems, including greatly reduced indoor air quality but, even more importantly, it invariably points to a more serious problem.

In the case of bathrooms, mould is almost always a result of poor ventilation or leaking plumbing fixtures For this reason, you should regularly check for damp patches pointing to leaks in hard-to-reach places, such as beneath shower trays or baths.

Many leaks are easy to fix, and may be sorted out by a plumber in a matter of minutes. A lot of leaks are caused by loose plumbing fixtures, such as drain connections or failing taps.

However, more serious leaks may be a result of a crack in the bathtub or shower tray which, unfortunately, usually means that the entire unit will need to be replaced.

Fortunately, most damp-related problems in bathrooms are entirely a result of poor ventilation, which is easy enough to fix provided you tend to it quickly. 

Most importantly, you should ensure that your bathroom meets UK building regulations, not just because of legal concerns, but also because they provide a minimum requirement for bathroom ventilation.

Most bathrooms are required to have an extractor fan installed, which should be repaired as soon as possible if ever it breaks down.

If your bathroom has a window, you should keep it open a crack whenever bathing or showering and for a short while afterwards, since it will help to remove steam from the room, thus preventing mould from building up.

No bathroom should ever be kept completely closed up, especially when it’s in use. You should also avoid leaving damp towels in bathrooms, instead leaving them outside or in a well-ventilated room to dry out properly.

Repairing Grout & Sealant

Tiled surfaces, such as those in the typical bathroom, need to be grouted to prevent moisture from getting in between the tiles and damaging the wall beneath or the adhesive that keeps the tiles attached.

You should also pay special attention to grout lines when giving your bathroom a deep clean, since they can be susceptible to mould. On occasion, however, you will need to repair grout using a caulking gun, suitable ceramic tile grout and scraping tool.

When repairing bathroom grout, here's what you should do

You’ll first need to scrape out the existing grout and thoroughly clean away any remaining residue. If the surfaces are not completely clean, the new grout won’t adhere properly.

Once the surface is prepared, load up a caulking gun with grout and apply it to the gap.

Afterwards, wipe away any excess grout from the surface using a damp cloth, and leave it to dry.

Although most products will be dry to the touch within half an hour, you should wait at least 24 hours before using the bathroom to ensure that the material has fully settled and has reached its optimal performance level.

You should also regularly check the state of any caulk around shower trays and bathtubs to ensure that there’s no place for water to get into otherwise hard-to-reach areas.

Maintaining Shower Doors

Shower doors, whether they slide or swing, need to be inspected regularly to ensure optimal performance.

If there is any standing water left behind after having a shower, either the drainage system in the door track has failed the seal has come loose or of course, there’s also the possibility that the door wasn’t closed during showering, so be sure to take this into account before assuming something is broken.

If the seal around the edges of the shower door or frame is damaged, it can usually be replaced without having to replace the door itself or the entire unit.

Unblocking Drains

There are few things worse than blocked bathroom drains and plumbing backups, but they’re inevitable on occasion. Fortunately, there’s rarely any need to call a plumber if you have a blocked drain, unless you’ve tried all the DIY fixes and the problem keeps recurring.

Drains will clog up on occasion, particularly if you don’t install protective meshes around plug holes to filter out larger amounts of detritus.

One of the most effective ways to unblock drains without resorting to strong chemicals is to use a combination of baking soda, vinegar and boiling water.

Start by tipping a pot of boiling water down the drain before tipping about half a cup of baking soda into the plug hole.

Next, pour a mixture of half vinegar and half boiling water down the drain, cover the plug and wait for around ten minutes.

Finally, flush another pot of boiling water down the drain, and it should get unblocked.

This method should solve most blockages, and it’s worth trying before you try a more heavy-duty drain unblocker.

Fixing Blocked Taps

A common problem in many households is limescale, particularly in areas with hard water.

While having a water softener installed will help prevent the build-up of limescale, there will usually be one tap not connected to the system for the sake of providing suitable drinking water.

If the flow of water from any taps in your bathroom or kitchen is inadequate, then limescale is by far the most likely culprit.

The best way to solve the problem involves removing the tap or blocked pipe and immersing it in water with a high concentration of lemon juice or other light acid.

The acid will usually dissolve the limescale within about fifteen minutes, after which you can reconnect the fixture, and it should once again work flawlessly. 

Cleaning Your Bathroom

Cleaning the bathroom at least once per week may be standard procedure for any self-respecting homeowner, but there are certain things that tend to get overlooked, such as hard-to-reach places beneath fittings, the underside of taps, plug holes and stoppers.

An all-purpose bathroom-cleaning product will be fine for everyday cleaning as well as the occasional deep cleaning.

You should avoid using particularly course scrubbing brushes on tiled surfaces, however, since doing so may cause damage to the grout.

When giving your bathroom a deep clean, be sure to pay attention to any mould around plug holes and other often overlooked areas.

If you have a shower curtain, you will also need to clean or replace it every few months or whenever it starts showing signs of discolouration due to mould.

After cleaning, always leave the bathroom door open and keep it well ventilated until it’s completely dry.

Bathroom Remodelling

Despite being one of the most important and frequently used areas of a home, bathrooms are rarely a glamorous affair and, as such, they tend to be among the last rooms to get a major facelift.

However, remodelling your bathroom can add value to your home while also greatly improving functionality and comfort.

Things like larger shower cubicles, new lighting fixtures and anything that makes better use of what is often a limited space are all popular bathroom remodelling projects.

In other cases, remodelling a bathroom simply makes sense, particularly when problems such as drain blockages and leakages start occurring on a regular basis.

According to which.co.uk, the average cost of fitting a new basin, toilet and bath is around £365 in addition, of course, to the actual cost of the bathroom furniture itself.

Nonetheless, if your bathroom hasn’t had a major facelift for about twenty years or more, then a carefully planned upgrade will very likely recuperate the costs in terms of what it adds to the value of your home.

Bathroom cleaning and maintenance might not be the most glamorous of household tasks, but a lack of a proper routine can lead to future damage that can be costly to repair.

For most households, a light clean at least once per week, combined with a deep clean every month, along with an inspection for any leaks or damages, should help to keep the plumber away for quite some time.

However, if your bathroom does develop a leak, particularly in a hard-to-reach area, you shouldn’t hold off from calling a plumber.